Winnipeg Free Press (Newspaper) - September 10, 2020, Winnipeg, Manitoba
C M Y K PAGE B4
BUSINESS
BUSINESS EDITOR: SHANE MINKIN 204-697-7292 ● CITY.DESK@FREEPRESS.MB.CA ● WINNIPEGFREEPRESS.COM
B4 THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 10, 2020
‘The
HEART BEAT
of True North Square’
Gourmet grocer opens downtown,
features ‘nothing but the best’
F RESH cut flowers, Angel pita from Jerusalem, Lavazza espres-so from Italy, pastries, bread and
bagels baked on site as well as all the
tomatoes, bananas, milk, cheese and
eggs that you need. Mottola Grocery,
which opens Monday, is the downtown,
high-end grocery store that was always
envisioned to be part of True North
Square.
Yes, it was to have opened earlier in
the year, but Bobby Mottola, the store’s
proprietor and long-time Winnipeg
restaurateur, said the pandemic just
gave everyone a little more time to
be thoughtful about the offerings at
the 6,000-square-foot urban specialty
grocery store.
Jammed with old-world Italian charm
and modern design — the store’s logo
feature’s the stamp from Mottola’s grand-
father’s Italian passport and the in-house
bakery is behind sky-high windows so pa-
trons can see the baking in action — Mot-
tola and True North Square developers
researched food gallerias from around
the world to come up with the concept.
From the ping pong dining table to the
cute little Piaggio truck in the foyer to
high top tables across from the gleaming
espresso machine looking out onto the
fountains in the True North Square plaza,
the invitation is to linger.
“It is even better than we had originally
anticipated,” Mottola said. “When we first
started talking it was a smaller idea. We
have a full-time baking team working
overnight. We have products coming in
from all over the world as well as lots of
local products from the farmers field to
our door step.”
Of the roughly 1,600 products, there
are hundreds that are new to Manitoba
and many that are new to Canada.
As the operator of restaurants on the
second floor in the Hargrave Street Mar-
ket as well as Pizzeria Gusto and Mer-
chant Kitchen, Mottola can leverage the
needs (and recipes) of those kitchens into
the fresh produce offerings at Mottola
Grocery to minimize waste and reduce
costs.
As well as the core grocery items, the
store will feature a revolving offering of
all sorts of prepared meals that include
favourites from his other restaurants like
Lasagna Bianco al Forno.
For Jim Ludlow, the president of True
North Real Estate Development, the
grocery store is like the finishing touch
to massive project.
“This is the heart beat of True North
Square,” he said.
With office and residential towers both
almost completely leased and three more
towers still to come on the west side of
Carlton Street (a Sutton Place hotel and
condo tower and the new head office of
Wawanesa Insurance), the presence of a
grocery store with all the special touches
that this one has was a key part of the
vision from the start.
“We are trying to create a newer,
more innovative urban environment in
downtown Winnipeg,” Ludlow said. “It’s
always fascinating to me, because we
are standing in what was once a surface
parking lot.”
Apart from a buffet station that has
been temporarily re-purposed and re-
merchandised, the pandemic delayed the
store’s opening but not the energy and
intensity of the offering.
“The pandemic has created stress in
the near term but I would tell you, we
have a long view,” Ludlow said.
The meat counter features a focused
offering of “nothing but the best,” like
milk-fed veal from Quebec, New Zealand
lamb and executive chef Jesse Friesen’s
favourite, A5 Japanese Wagyu beef (that
can cost up to $200 per pound).
The store is filled with artisan pack-
aged goods from Winnipeg including
both Chaeban and Fete ice cream, Dave’s
Juice, Verde juice and Fruit de la vie and
gift ware including Lot Ceramics and
1969 personal care products from Swe-
den, there will even be a curated selec-
tion of retail priced wines.
Scattered throughout the store are 60
to 70 different Mottola Grocery house
brands of condiments and dressings.
The store will function at least partially
like a commissary for Mottola’s restau-
rants and will employ more than 40 chefs
and bakers.
“Our culinary team is really, really
good,” Mottola said. “They have proven
themselves over 12 years. We have done
a lot of interesting things. Everyone is re-
ally excited. They will quickly write out
a recipe, show you how to use it and take
you around and show you the ingredient
you’ll need. There will be lots of back and
forth.”
Although the store is a new venture for
Mottola and a significant commitment, he
and Ludlow are calmly confident that it
will work.
“We have always believed in our part-
nership and relationship with folks like
Bobby,” Ludlow said. “Our success, if we
have been successful, is the result of that
belief.”
Mottola credits Ludlow and the team at
True North for always encouraging and
pushing forward.
“We are so conscientious about cus-
tomer service and what it is like to be
on the other side of the table when you
order,” Mottola said. “All the little details
that our group has put together with the
building, the fountain, the layering of
outside with the inside it is really unique
to our story.”
martin.cash@freepress.mb.ca
MARTIN CASH
Mottola Grocery in True North Square opens on Monday.
‘We have
products
coming in from
all over the
world as well
as lots of local
products from
the farmers
field to our
door step.’
— Bobby Mottola (above),
proprietor of Mottola Grocery
PHOTOS BY MIKAELA MACKENZIE / WINNIPEG FREE PRESS
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