Winnipeg Free Press

Winnipeg Free Press (Newspaper) - October 6, 2021, Winnipeg, Manitoba C M Y K PAGE C3 C 3ARTS ● LIFE I FOODWEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2021 ● WINNIPEGFREEPRESS.COM Ingrained goodness of FREEKEH Chewy grain pairs with shiitakes, leeks, snap peas for a hearty fall salad S OMETHING about a grain salad al-ways helps me bridge the seasons. Like lighter soups, they fill me up without weighing me down, and they can usually be served cold, hot or in between. My favourite grains for such salads are the heartier ones: brown or wild rice, barley, farro. For these salads, I want something I can sink my teeth into, which rules out fluffy couscous and flyaway quinoa. But I also appreci- ate something quick-cooking, which is where broken grains come in. I’m thinking coarse bulgur and, when I can find it, freekeh. Freekeh is a grain with an interest- ing backstory, a legend involving a long-ago fire that burned still-green wheat in the Middle East. I’ve seen some accounts peg it to an act of war, while Roxana Jullapat, in her gorgeous book Mother Grains, pins it on two neighbouring farmers caught in a dis- pute. Whatever the truth is, the impor- tant part of the story is that the grains were discovered to be still edible once the outer burned part was removed. And not just edible: Pardon the word- play, but freekeh is freaking delicious, with a slightly chewy texture and a subtly smoky flavour. It also cooks in just 15 minutes or so, which makes it suitable for last-minute dinner plan- ning. Jullapat’s recipe pairs it with blanched sugar snap peas, raw baby spinach leaves and quickly sauteed leeks and mushrooms, bound in a simple lemon vinaigrette. She serves the salad cold in the deli case of her Los Angeles restaurant Friends & Family, but I devoured it at room temperature — and can imag- ine warming it through in a skillet or the microwave as the days tilt harder toward winter. — The Washington Post JOE YONAN 30 minutes; 4 servings This grain salad is full of interesting textures: chewy freekeh, crunchy snap peas and slightly leathery mushrooms. If you haven’t encoun- tered freekeh, it’s cracked green wheat that has been smoked, giving the grain a subtle woodsy flavour. If you can’t find it, feel free to substitute another chewy grain, such as barley, farro or brown rice; just follow the package directions for cooking them. Make ahead: The freekeh, snap peas and leek-mushroom mixture can each be cooked separately and refrigerated for up to two days before making the salad. Where to buy: Freekeh can be found in some well-stocked grocery and natural- foods stores, and in Middle Eastern or Mediterranean markets. 250 ml (1 cup or 5 oz) freekeh 500 ml (2 cups) water 6 ml (1 1/4 tsp) fine sea salt or table salt, divided, plus more to taste 500 ml (2 cups or 6 oz) sugar snap peas (may substitute snow peas or green beans) 1 small leek, white and light green parts 125 ml (1/2 cup) extra-virgin olive oil, divided 750 ml (3 cups or 5 oz) fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps thinly sliced 500 ml (2 cups or 2 oz) baby spinach 30 ml (2 tbsp) fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste In a medium dry saucepan over medium heat, toast the freekeh, tossing, until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the water and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer until the freekeh is tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain any excess water and transfer the freekeh to a large salad bowl. While the freekeh is cooking, remove the tough string that runs along the side of each sugar snap pea. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil, add 1 ml (1/4 tsp) of the salt and blanch the snap peas until bright green and tender, about 2 minutes. Drain immediately and let cool completely. Cut each pea into thirds at an angle and add to the freekeh in the bowl. Cut the leek in half lengthwise and slice into thin half-moons. Put the slices in a bowl and cover with cold water to remove any dirt. Using a slotted spoon or spider, lift the leeks out of the water and drain. If they are still gritty, repeat the process. In a large saute pan over medium-high heat, heat 60 ml (1/4 cup) of the olive oil until it shimmers. Add the cleaned leeks and 1 ml (1/4 tsp) of the salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until they release their liquid, darken and soften, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to the salad bowl and let cool. Roughly chop the spinach and add it to the salad bowl. Pour the lemon juice into a small bowl. Pour in the remaining 60 ml (1/4 cup) of olive oil in a thin, steady stream while whisking vigorously. Whisk in the remaining salt. Add the vinaigrette to the salad and toss to combine. Taste, and season with more salt and/or lemon juice, if needed. Serve at room temperature, or chill in the refrigerator and serve cold. Nutrition information per serving (1 1/2 cups) | Calories: 442; Total Fat: 29 g; Satur- ated Fat: 4 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 763 mg; Carbohydrates: 41 g; Dietary Fibre: 7 g; Sugar: 6 g; Protein: 11 g This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substi- tute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice. Adapted from Mother Grains by Roxana Jullapat (W.W. Norton, 2021). Freekeh with Shiitake Mushrooms, Leeks and Snap Peas REY LOPEZ / WASHINGTON POST This freekeh grain salad cooks in just 15 minutes or so, making it handy for last-minute dinner planning. C_03_Oct-06-21_FP_01.indd C3 2021-10-05 10:51 PM ;