Winnipeg Free Press

Winnipeg Free Press (Newspaper) - July 17, 2024, Winnipeg, Manitoba C2 ● WINNIPEGFREEPRESS.COMWEDNESDAY, JULY 17, 2024 As summer heat cranks up, our appetites may cool off LAURA WILLIAMSON SUMMER is in full swing. Exposure to extreme heat — the leading cause of weather-related deaths — can lead to heat exhaustion, heat stroke and added strain on the heart and kidneys, exac- erbating underlying conditions such as cardiovas- cular disease and respiratory illnesses. But extreme heat, such as what Winnipeggers will be experiencing by the weekend with highs in the low-30 C range, can also have a more subtle effect on the body, influencing how much and what people want to eat. In short, as temperatures rise, appetites may drop. Researchers say there’s a reason for that. High temperatures, low appetites Digesting food and storing its nutrients uses energy, which generates heat, said Dr. Allison Childress, a registered dietitian nutritionist and an associate professor of practice in the nutrition- al sciences department at Texas Tech University in Lubbock. “There are definite differences in calorie intake in cold weather versus hot. A calorie is a measure of heat. In a cold environment, you need to burn calories to create heat in the body. People in a hot or warm environment don’t eat as many calories because it heats the body up.” While the mechanisms linking temperature and appetite aren’t fully understood, animal research suggests that higher ambient temperatures may lower the production of the gut hormone ghrelin, which stimulates hunger in the brain, said Dr. Gordon Fisher, a kinesiology professor and assis- tant dean for research in the School of Education and Human Sciences and the department of human studies at the University of Alabama at Birmingham. “Communication between thermoregulatory processes in the brain and the stomach may play a role in the regulation of food intake, but we have not been able to identify an exact mecha- nism to explain this,” he said. During a heat wave, eat this, not that Experts say some foods bring more heat than others — and not just because they’re spicy. When temperatures rise, people are less likely to crave foods that require greater digestive efforts and increase the body’s heat production, Childress said. “But that doesn’t mean the body doesn’t need protein or fibre when it’s hot out,” she said. To get the recommended amounts, she suggests people eat smaller amounts of both more fre- quently throughout the day. In general, avoid foods that are higher in calor- ic content, Fisher said. Experts say staying hydrated — which is always important — becomes even more so when temperatures rise. Water is best for hydration and can even be fla- voured with the addition of limes or cucumbers, Childress said. “Low-fat dairy milk can be a good option be- cause it’s a fluid you can drink cold and also has a lot of nutrients,” she said. Fisher warned against drinking alcohol or beverages high in caffeine. “They both have dehydrating effects that can lead to increased water loss,” he said. But moderate amounts of caffeine are fine, Childress said. “Unsweetened iced coffee and iced tea can be hydrating as long as you consume them in moder- ation. Any fluid is better than no fluid.” Beverages aren’t the only source of hydration, Fisher said. Foods can provide about 20 per cent of the body’s fluid intake. “Melons, berries, lettuce, celery, tomatoes, cucumbers, soups, slushies and yogurts are just a few foods that are high in water content and also provide cooling effects,” he said. “Foods that have a lot of water like fruits and vegetables give us that cooling effect plus typi- cally we eat them cold,” Childress said. But just because a food is served cold doesn’t mean it will help cool the body down, she said. “A popsicle or cold beverage can give imme- diate relief, but if there are calories in those things, we end up digesting those calories and they eventually increase the body temperature slightly,” she said. Heat and food insecurity Not only can extreme heat make people less interested in eating, it can also make it harder to grow and obtain food. “Heat waves in general can lead to a decrease in agriculture growth and lead to increases in food prices,” Fisher said. And, they can make it harder for people to get to the places that sell food. Heat waves not only affect the food supply, they “can also affect the desire to leave the house,” Childress said. And for people who lack trans- portation, walking long distances becomes more difficult. “People who live in food deserts, far away from the food, are a lot less apt to go out to shop when it’s really hot outside. They skip it. Food insecu- rity can be worse in extreme weather. It’s also a problem when it’s very, very cold outside,” she said. Childress suggested stocking up on food when hot weather is in the forecast to reduce the need to go out. — American Heart Association News Smashed potato salad is social media site’s trendy spin on a summer classic O NE of my favourite food-related debates is which form of potato is superior to the rest. There are so many to choose from — mashed, roasted, fries, chips — and my answer often changes. In the summer, I gravitate toward cool and creamy potato salads, but in general I tend to crave a crispier, crunchier spud. Enter the smashed potato salad. I first saw the delightful mashup of golden brown smashed potatoes and potato salad dressing on my TikTok feed a couple of months ago and immediately bookmarked it. Since then, I’ve seen several others pop up on my For You page, and though it’s unclear where the trend originated — creators ice.karim- cooks and dr.vegan appear to have been early promoters — it was Hungry Happens blogger Stella Drivas’s take on it that went viral. With more than 15.5 million views and nearly a mil- lion likes, her salad featuring ultrathin, crispy potatoes with a tangy, tzatziki-inspired dress- ing (Greek yogurt, garlic, herbs and cucumber) sent foodies on the app into a frenzy. Since her video in January, plenty more variations have popped up, including veganized versions and a genius rendition with tater tots. I hopped on the bandwagon and initially tried the Hungry Happens recipe and one from Allrecipes, which amassed 4.5 million views on TikTok. The Allrecipes version from Nicole McLaughlin is a bit more pared down, with a dressing of sour cream, mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, dill, parsley and green onions. Since it’s similar to my usual potato salad, I anticipated preferring this version, but I found that the crispy texture of the potatoes needed a punchy dressing to stand up to it. That’s where the tzatziki flavours of the Hun- gry Happens recipe had the advantage. While I thought it was delicious from the start, I decided to tinker with the original Hungry Happens recipe, pulling from my recipe tests as well as my own potato salad preferences. I strayed from my usual sour cream and opted for whole-milk Greek yogurt, which provides a tangy flavour with a touch of richness, and combined it with mayonnaise to create a creamy base. Red onions replace shallots to keep with the Mediterranean theme, and a single clove of gar- lic has a small but mighty presence. Lemon and red wine vinegar add brightness, and while a number of herbs, such as parsley or mint, could work, I like my tzatziki to be dill-forward. I was unsure how the cucumbers would fare in the salad, concerned that they might make the dish too watery, but when seeded and chopped into small pieces, they provide a cool- ing crunch that both balances and heightens the flavour and texture of the potatoes. The pickles are not a traditional tzatziki ingredient, but in my book, all good potato salads include them. They mingle with the zippy flavours of the on- ion, lemon and vinegar while still maintaining the refreshing bite of their raw counterparts. The key to this salad, though, is the smashed potatoes. Boiling baby potatoes until they’re tender and easily pierced with a fork allows them to be smashed evenly and kept mostly intact. I also noticed smaller spuds were easier to smash. Some of the recipes involve smashing the potatoes so thin that they almost transform into chips, but I still wanted a hint of a fluffy interi- or and found that keeping them 6 to 12 mm (¼- to ½-inch) thick seemed to do the trick. Yes, you might be eyeing the total cook time and oven instructions with skepticism, but the 55 minutes of roasting are necessary for a crisp, golden brown exterior on the potatoes. Plus, that downtime allows you to prep the dressing without having to worry about fussing with mise en place first. I promise, the result is worth it. If you’re worried about heating up your kitch- en too much (a valid concern during a heat- wave), you can also try air frying the potatoes at 200 C (400 F), or just cubing boiled potatoes and tossing them with the dressing. While there is still a place in my heart for more traditional potato salads and standard smashed potatoes, the combination of the two is one that will be a staple in my summertime recipe repertoire. And when the great potato debate next arises, I have just the thing to con- tribute to the discussion. — The Washington Post ANNA LUISA RODRIGUEZ Smashed Potato Salad With Tzatziki Dressing SCOTT SUCHMAN / THE WASHINGTON POST Smashed potato salad with tzatziki dressing is sure to be a hit at summer gatherings. TikTok’s crispy take 6 to 8 servings (makes 8 cups) Active time: 30 mins; Total time: 1 hour 45 mins This TikTok-inspired recipe uses the crispy texture of smashed potatoes to create an unorthodox but delicious potato salad. The creamy, cooling dressing is based on tzatziki, featuring a combination of Greek yogurt, cucumber, dill and lemon juice, but dill pickles and red onion add another pop of briny, acidic flavour. Though it’s a bit of a time investment, most of the cooking is hands-off, and the unique texture of the salad is worth the wait. It’s a twist on tradition that is sure to be hit at cookouts, barbecues and potlucks. Storage: The texture of the salad is best when fresh, but you can refrigerate leftovers for up to 4 days. For the potatoes 1.4 kg (3 lbs) baby potatoes, scrubbed 15 ml (1 tbsp) plus 2.5 ml (½ tsp) fine salt, divided 45 ml (3 tbsp) olive oil 2.5 ml (½ tsp) garlic powder 1 ml (¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper For the dressing 160 ml (2⁄3 cup) plain Greek yogurt, preferably whole-milk 125 ml (½ cup) seeded and finely chopped cucumber 125 ml (½ cup) finely chopped dill pickles 80 ml (1⁄3 cup) mayonnaise 80 ml (1⁄3 cup) finely chopped red onion 60 ml (¼ cup) finely chopped fresh dill, plus more for garnish 1 garlic clove, minced or finely grated 30 ml (2 tbsp) fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon) 10 ml (2 tsp) red wine vinegar 5 ml (1 tsp) Dijon mustard MAKE the potatoes: Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 220 C (425 F). Line a large sheet pan with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. In a large, at least 6-litre (6-quart), lidded pot, com- bine the potatoes with 15 ml (1 tbsp) of the salt, and add enough cold water to cover the potatoes by about 2.5 cm (1 inch). Set the pot over high heat, cover with a lid and bring to a boil. Uncover and reduce the heat to medium, or as needed, so the water is at a lively simmer, and cook until the potatoes are very tender and easily pierced with a fork, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes, transfer to the prepared sheet pan and set aside until cool enough to handle. Using the bottom of a glass or measuring cup, carefully and slowly crush each potato to about a ½-cm (¼-inch) thickness, doing your best to keep them intact. Brush the tops of the potatoes with the olive oil and season with the remaining 2.5 ml (½ tsp) of salt, the garlic powder and pepper. Transfer the potatoes to the oven and roast for about 55 minutes, or until crispy and golden brown. Let cool on the pan for 10 to 15 minutes. Make the dressing: While the potatoes are roasting, in a large bowl, whisk together the yogurt, cucumber, pickles, mayonnaise, onion, dill, garlic, lemon juice, vinegar and mustard until combined. Once the potatoes are cool enough to handle, cut them in half or bite-size pieces and add to the dress- ing. Toss to coat evenly. Garnish with dill and serve. Substitutions: For a richer potato salad, use sour cream in place of Greek yogurt, or a combination of equal parts Greek yogurt and mayonnaise. Substitute white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar for the red wine vinegar. Vegan? Use vegan mayonnaise and plant-based yogurt. Instead of red onion, try scallions or shallots. Use parsley or chives instead of dill. Nutrition per serving 250 ml (1 cup), based on 8: 257 calories, 29g carbohydrates, 6mg cholesterol, 13g fat, 5g fibre, 5g protein, 2g saturated fat, 309mg sodium, 3g sugar This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice. SCOTT SUCHMAN FOR THE WASHINGTON POST Smash the boiled potatoes before roasting them for a delicious crispiness. ARTS ● LIFE I FOOD ;