Winnipeg Free Press

Wednesday, April 02, 2025

Issue date: Wednesday, April 2, 2025
Pages available: 32
Previous edition: Tuesday, April 1, 2025

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Winnipeg Free Press (Newspaper) - April 2, 2025, Winnipeg, Manitoba C2 ● WINNIPEGFREEPRESS.COMWEDNESDAY, APRIL 2, 2025 S OME food trends put in deep roots, some are fleeting, some are outright silly and some are just plain fun. I am putting the “just plain fun” label on this one: pearl-shaped foods that pop in your mouth. Tiny sphere-shaped foods seem to be everywhere, entertaining mouths with their pop-ability and the sometimes unusual transforma- tion of familiar foods. Call it part of a bubble moment: the bubble hem is hot in fashion, and decor is loving soft, round cor- ners and playfulness. Here are some examples of pearl- shaped foods, old and new. Straight from nature Some pearl-shaped bubble foods have been with us for a long time — not fads at all. Perhaps the classic is caviar and fish eggs in general. Different fish eggs have different types of “pop” and different flavour profiles. Fish roe is great on blinis, toast point and potato pancakes, but also eggs, shellfish and pasta. Could it be time for the finger lime? Another natural, pearl-shaped product — one not so well-known — is the finger lime. It looks like a skinny, pinky-shaped lime, but inside are wonderful little crunchy caviar-like pearls of lime juice. It’s definitely a novelty, but not a gimmick: The fla- vour and texture is a terrific addition to anything from oysters to scallop ceviche. The skin of finger limes can be green, burgundy or dull orange. The pulpy pearls can be green, pale peach or red. To harvest a finger lime’s caviar, just slice the lime down the middle and then squeeze each half. If your finger lime is fresh, the caviar should spill out easily. Look for them at spe- cialty stores or online. Boba and boba tea Boba and boba tea (also known as bubble tea) have been around since the 1980s, introduced from Taiwan and now taking the world by storm. Boba pearls are usually made from tapioca starch (from the cas- sava plant), water and sometimes a sweetener, such as brown sugar, using a process known as gelatinization. The little boba balls are chewy and bouncy and while they are most often served in a sweet cold tea, they can also be used in different preparations. There is also popping boba, designed to burst when you bite into it. Boba tea is usually sweet and creamy, shaken before serving to create a frothy texture. A fat straw is used to slurp up the balls, which are chewed as you drink. You can buy boba tea at coffee shops, Asian markets and specialty stores and get packaged boba pearls to make drinks and other confections at home. Twrl Milk Tea, for example, makes boba offerings like Lychee Popping Boba and Brown Sugar Boba. You can also buy ready-to-drink boba tea in a can or bubble tea kits. Spherification: making foods pop-able A trend that’s been percolating for years is spherified foods — liquids that become squishy little orbs when a gelled membrane is created around them. One of my favourites is balsamic and other vinegar pearls. De Nigris, for instance, makes a line of Italian balsamic vinegar pearls, including some flavoured with truffle and orange. Messino makes balsamic pearls, lemon pearls filled with real lemon juice and pomegranate pearls. Tartuflanghe turns truffle juice into truffle pearls and also makes ancho- vy and pesto pearls. Prova’s vanilla, coffee and cocoa pearls are made for pastry chefs to serve on desserts. You might sprinkle balsamic pearls on crostini or bruschetta, salads and burrata or other cheeses. Try lemon pearls on top of oysters or grilled fish. Pomegranate pearls can be served on yogurt, tarts and cocktails — as can the pomegranate’s natural pearls, the jelly-like arils that cover some seeds. Spherification, or reverse spheri- fication as it is officially called, uses sodium alginate and calcium to create the little orbs. The technique was invented in the 1940s and popularized by chef Ferran Adraia in the 2000s at his famed, now-closed restaurant El Bulli, in Spain. Spherification beyond liquids Some restaurants spherify their own foods, from ravioli to melons. Olive lovers might be dazzled by the spherified olives at Jose Andres’ Mer- cado Little Spain in New York. BelGiosioso makes teeny little mozzarella pearls, weighing in at 2.5 grams each. They look adorable in pasta salads and antipasti platters. They also melt into perfect little cheesy pockets in baked pastas, such as baked ziti. — The Associated Press KATIE WORKMAN GREGORY BULL / THE ASSOCIATED PRESS FILES Boba pearls in bubble tea are usually made from tapioca starch, water and sometimes a sweetener using a process known as gelatinization. Bubble foods add to all kinds of menus Panko breadcrumbs streamline meatball-making process NAPLES may be famous for its pizza, but the meatballs are just as deserving of worldwide acclaim. Massive orbs of ground beef are set in a shallow pool of ragù, red and glistening, and are served as often alongside pasta as without. Despite their impressive size, they’re light and tender, thanks to a high ratio of bread to meat. In this recipe from our latest cook- book, Milk Street Backroads Italy, we use Japanese panko breadcrumbs, which have a neutral flavor and a light and fluffy but coarse texture. It greatly streamlines the meatball-mak- ing process, eliminating the need to remove the crusts from fresh bread, soak it in water and squeeze out excess moisture. Panko only needs to be moistened with water and it’s ready to use. Don’t be shy about mixing the panko-meat mixture with your hands. It takes a few minutes to work the mixture together until homogeneous. To help the meatballs keep their shape, chill them for 15 to 20 minutes before baking. Neapolitans serve their meatballs with a basic tomato sauce they refer to as “ragù.” After baking, be sure to let the meatballs rest for about 10 minutes before adding them to the sauce. Pecorino is used two ways in this recipe. A chunk is simmered in the sauce and a portion is grated both in and over the meatballs. Serve with warm, crusty bread or pasta alongside. Though the latter isn’t traditional, it makes a fine accompaniment. — The Associated Press CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL Neapolitan Meatballs with Ragù HOMEMADE ● FROM C1 Hot Hamburger or Bean Dip 1 large onion, diced 900 g (2 lbs) lean ground or 250 ml (1 cup) each celery and zucchini, diced 225 g (½ lb) Velveeta cheese, diced 1 (284 ml) can tomato soup 1 (284 ml) can mushroom soup 1 green pepper, diced 1 red pepper, diced 10 ml (2 tsp) chili powder 7.5 ml (½ tsp) garlic salt 15 ml (1 tbsp) fresh parsley, chopped 1 hot banana pepper, whole 1 large can pork and beans or kidney beans 45 ml (3 tbsp) flour or cornstarch TO a pan over medium heat, add onion and ground beef, or vegetables if making vegetar- ian, and cook until browned. Add cooked onion and beef or vegetables to a slow cooker or large oven-safe dish. Add remaining ingredients, reserving the flour or cornstarch. Set the slow cooker to high and let simmer for about an hour, or preheat the oven to 375 F and bake for 1 hour. Stir in flour or cornstarch part way through cooking. If using cornstarch, make a slurry with water before adding. The dip will thicken as it cools. Serve warm with taco chips or fresh vege- tables. “I have made this recipe for years. It’s also yummy to add to a taco salad. It freezes well. Oh, did I mention that it feeds a crowd? It’s a never-fail go-to recipe.” — Helen Goerzen Start to finish: 50 minutes Servings: 6 to 8 Ingredients 60 ml (4 tbsp) extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more to serve 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped Kosher salt and ground black pepper 6 medium garlic cloves, finely grated 7.5 ml (1 ½ tsp) red pepper flakes, divided 625 ml (2 ½ cups) panko breadcrumbs 90 g (3 oz) pecorino Romano cheese, 60 g (2 oz) finely grated, 30 g (1 oz) as a chunk, plus more grated, to serve 1 large egg, plus 1 large egg yolk, beaten together 680 g (1 ½ lbs) lean ground beef Two 796 ml cans whole peeled toma- toes 6 to 8 large basil leaves Directions HEAT the oven to 250 C (475 F) with a rack in the middle position. Line a rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment and mist with cooking spray. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high, heat 60 ml (2 tbsp) of the oil until shimmering. Add the onion and pinch of salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 min- utes. Add the garlic and 5 ml (1 tsp) of the pepper flakes; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove from the heat, then transfer half of the onion mixture to a large bowl. In a medium bowl, combine the panko and 310 ml (1¼ cups) water; press the panko into the water and let stand until fully softened, about 5 minutes. Mash with your hands to a smooth paste, then add to the bowl with the onion mixture. Using a fork, mix until well combined and smooth. Stir in the grated cheese, beaten eggs, remaining oil, 5 ml (1 tsp) salt and 10 ml (2 tsp) black pepper. Add the meat and mix thoroughly with your hands. Using a 125 ml (½-cup) dry measuring cup, divide the mixture into 8 portions. Using your hands, shape each into a compact ball and place on the prepared baking sheet, spacing them evenly apart. Refrigerate uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes. Re-shape the meatballs if they have flattened slightly, then bake until lightly browned, about 20 minutes. Let cool on the baking sheet set on a wire rack for about 10 minutes. While the meatballs cook, in a food pro- cessor or blender, puree the tomatoes with their juices one can at a time, until smooth, about 30 seconds, transferring the puree to a large bowl. Return the Dutch oven to medium and heat the remaining onion mix- ture, stirring, until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, remaining pepper flakes, the basil and the chunk of cheese. Bring to a simmer over medium- high and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Using a large spoon, carefully transfer the meatballs to the sauce, then, using 2 spoons, turn each to coat. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce to medium-low, cover and cook for 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let stand, covered, for about 5 minutes to allow the meatballs to firm up slightly. Remove and discard the pecorino chunk. Serve with additional grated cheese. MILK STREET Neapolitans serve their meatballs with a basic tomato sauce they refer to as ragù. ARTS ● LIFE I FOOD ;