Winnipeg Free Press (Newspaper) - April 2, 2025, Winnipeg, Manitoba
C2
● WINNIPEGFREEPRESS.COMWEDNESDAY, APRIL 2, 2025
S
OME food trends put
in deep roots, some
are fleeting, some are
outright silly and some
are just plain fun. I am
putting the “just plain fun” label on
this one: pearl-shaped foods that
pop in your mouth.
Tiny sphere-shaped foods seem
to be everywhere, entertaining
mouths with their pop-ability and
the sometimes unusual transforma-
tion of familiar foods.
Call it part of a bubble moment:
the bubble hem is hot in fashion,
and decor is loving soft, round cor-
ners and playfulness.
Here are some examples of pearl-
shaped foods, old and new.
Straight from nature
Some pearl-shaped bubble foods
have been with us for a long time —
not fads at all. Perhaps the classic
is caviar and fish eggs in general.
Different fish eggs have different
types of “pop” and different flavour
profiles.
Fish roe is great on blinis, toast
point and potato pancakes, but also
eggs, shellfish and pasta.
Could it be time for the
finger lime?
Another natural, pearl-shaped
product — one not so well-known — is
the finger lime. It looks like a skinny,
pinky-shaped lime, but inside are
wonderful little crunchy caviar-like
pearls of lime juice. It’s definitely a
novelty, but not a gimmick: The fla-
vour and texture is a terrific addition
to anything from oysters to scallop
ceviche.
The skin of finger limes can be
green, burgundy or dull orange. The
pulpy pearls can be green, pale peach
or red.
To harvest a finger lime’s caviar,
just slice the lime down the middle
and then squeeze each half. If your
finger lime is fresh, the caviar should
spill out easily. Look for them at spe-
cialty stores or online.
Boba and boba tea
Boba and boba tea (also known as
bubble tea) have been around since
the 1980s, introduced from Taiwan
and now taking the world by storm.
Boba pearls are usually made
from tapioca starch (from the cas-
sava plant), water and sometimes a
sweetener, such as brown sugar, using
a process known as gelatinization.
The little boba balls are chewy and
bouncy and while they are most often
served in a sweet cold tea, they can
also be used in different preparations.
There is also popping boba, designed
to burst when you bite into it.
Boba tea is usually sweet and
creamy, shaken before serving to
create a frothy texture. A fat straw is
used to slurp up the balls, which are
chewed as you drink.
You can buy boba tea at coffee
shops, Asian markets and specialty
stores and get packaged boba pearls
to make drinks and other confections
at home. Twrl Milk Tea, for example,
makes boba offerings like Lychee
Popping Boba and Brown Sugar Boba.
You can also buy ready-to-drink boba
tea in a can or bubble tea kits.
Spherification: making
foods pop-able
A trend that’s been percolating for
years is spherified foods — liquids
that become squishy little orbs when
a gelled membrane is created around
them.
One of my favourites is balsamic
and other vinegar pearls. De Nigris,
for instance, makes a line of Italian
balsamic vinegar pearls, including
some flavoured with truffle and
orange. Messino makes balsamic
pearls, lemon pearls filled with real
lemon juice and pomegranate pearls.
Tartuflanghe turns truffle juice into
truffle pearls and also makes ancho-
vy and pesto pearls.
Prova’s vanilla, coffee and cocoa
pearls are made for pastry chefs to
serve on desserts.
You might sprinkle balsamic pearls
on crostini or bruschetta, salads and
burrata or other cheeses. Try lemon
pearls on top of oysters or grilled
fish.
Pomegranate pearls can be served
on yogurt, tarts and cocktails — as
can the pomegranate’s natural pearls,
the jelly-like arils that cover some
seeds.
Spherification, or reverse spheri-
fication as it is officially called, uses
sodium alginate and calcium to create
the little orbs. The technique was
invented in the 1940s and popularized
by chef Ferran Adraia in the 2000s at
his famed, now-closed restaurant El
Bulli, in Spain.
Spherification beyond
liquids
Some restaurants spherify their
own foods, from ravioli to melons.
Olive lovers might be dazzled by the
spherified olives at Jose Andres’ Mer-
cado Little Spain in New York.
BelGiosioso makes teeny little
mozzarella pearls, weighing in at 2.5
grams each. They look adorable in
pasta salads and antipasti platters.
They also melt into perfect little
cheesy pockets in baked pastas, such
as baked ziti.
— The Associated Press
KATIE WORKMAN
GREGORY BULL / THE ASSOCIATED PRESS FILES
Boba pearls in bubble tea are usually made from tapioca starch, water and sometimes a sweetener using a process known as gelatinization.
Bubble foods add
to all kinds of menus
Panko breadcrumbs streamline meatball-making process
NAPLES may be famous for its pizza,
but the meatballs are just as deserving
of worldwide acclaim.
Massive orbs of ground beef are
set in a shallow pool of ragù, red and
glistening, and are served as often
alongside pasta as without. Despite
their impressive size, they’re light and
tender, thanks to a high ratio of bread
to meat.
In this recipe from our latest cook-
book, Milk Street Backroads Italy, we
use Japanese panko breadcrumbs,
which have a neutral flavor and a
light and fluffy but coarse texture. It
greatly streamlines the meatball-mak-
ing process, eliminating the need to
remove the crusts from fresh bread,
soak it in water and squeeze out excess
moisture. Panko only needs to be
moistened with water and it’s ready to
use.
Don’t be shy about mixing the
panko-meat mixture with your hands.
It takes a few minutes to work the
mixture together until homogeneous.
To help the meatballs keep their shape,
chill them for 15 to 20 minutes before
baking.
Neapolitans serve their meatballs
with a basic tomato sauce they refer to
as “ragù.” After baking, be sure to let
the meatballs rest for about 10 minutes
before adding them to the sauce.
Pecorino is used two ways in this
recipe. A chunk is simmered in the
sauce and a portion is grated both in
and over the meatballs. Serve with
warm, crusty bread or pasta alongside.
Though the latter isn’t traditional, it
makes a fine accompaniment.
— The Associated Press
CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL
Neapolitan Meatballs with Ragù
HOMEMADE ● FROM C1
Hot Hamburger
or Bean Dip
1 large onion, diced
900 g (2 lbs) lean ground or 250 ml (1
cup) each celery and zucchini, diced
225 g (½ lb) Velveeta cheese, diced
1 (284 ml) can tomato soup
1 (284 ml) can mushroom soup
1 green pepper, diced
1 red pepper, diced
10 ml (2 tsp) chili powder
7.5 ml (½ tsp) garlic salt
15 ml (1 tbsp) fresh parsley, chopped
1 hot banana pepper, whole
1 large can pork and beans or kidney beans
45 ml (3 tbsp) flour or cornstarch
TO a pan over medium heat, add onion and
ground beef, or vegetables if making vegetar-
ian, and cook until browned.
Add cooked onion and beef or vegetables
to a slow cooker or large oven-safe dish. Add
remaining ingredients, reserving the flour or
cornstarch.
Set the slow cooker to high and let simmer
for about an hour, or preheat the oven to 375
F and bake for 1 hour.
Stir in flour or cornstarch part way through
cooking. If using cornstarch, make a slurry
with water before adding. The dip will thicken
as it cools.
Serve warm with taco chips or fresh vege-
tables.
“I have made this recipe for years. It’s
also yummy to add to a taco salad. It
freezes well. Oh, did I mention that it
feeds a crowd? It’s a never-fail go-to
recipe.”
— Helen Goerzen
Start to finish: 50 minutes Servings: 6 to 8
Ingredients
60 ml (4 tbsp) extra-virgin olive oil,
divided, plus more to serve
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
6 medium garlic cloves, finely grated
7.5 ml (1 ½ tsp) red pepper flakes,
divided
625 ml (2 ½ cups) panko breadcrumbs
90 g (3 oz) pecorino Romano cheese,
60 g (2 oz) finely grated, 30 g (1 oz) as
a chunk, plus more grated, to serve
1 large egg, plus 1 large egg yolk,
beaten together
680 g (1 ½ lbs) lean ground beef
Two 796 ml cans whole peeled toma-
toes
6 to 8 large basil leaves
Directions
HEAT the oven to 250 C (475 F) with a rack
in the middle position. Line a rimmed
baking sheet with kitchen parchment and
mist with cooking spray. In a large Dutch
oven over medium-high, heat 60 ml (2
tbsp) of the oil until shimmering. Add the
onion and pinch of salt, then cook, stirring
occasionally, until softened, about 5 min-
utes. Add the garlic and 5 ml (1 tsp) of the
pepper flakes; cook, stirring, until fragrant,
about 30 seconds. Remove from the heat,
then transfer half of the onion mixture to a
large bowl.
In a medium bowl, combine the panko and
310 ml (1¼ cups) water; press the panko
into the water and let stand until fully
softened, about 5 minutes. Mash with your
hands to a smooth paste, then add to the
bowl with the onion mixture. Using a fork,
mix until well combined and smooth.
Stir in the grated cheese, beaten eggs,
remaining oil, 5 ml (1 tsp) salt and 10 ml (2
tsp) black pepper. Add the meat and mix
thoroughly with your hands.
Using a 125 ml (½-cup) dry measuring
cup, divide the mixture into 8 portions.
Using your hands, shape each into a
compact ball and place on the prepared
baking sheet, spacing them evenly apart.
Refrigerate uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes.
Re-shape the meatballs if they have
flattened slightly, then bake until lightly
browned, about 20 minutes.
Let cool on the baking sheet set on a wire
rack for about 10 minutes.
While the meatballs cook, in a food pro-
cessor or blender, puree the tomatoes with
their juices one can at a time, until smooth,
about 30 seconds, transferring the puree
to a large bowl. Return the Dutch oven to
medium and heat the remaining onion mix-
ture, stirring, until warmed through, about
2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, remaining
pepper flakes, the basil and the chunk of
cheese. Bring to a simmer over medium-
high and cook, stirring occasionally, until
slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Taste
and season with salt and pepper.
Using a large spoon, carefully transfer
the meatballs to the sauce, then, using 2
spoons, turn each to coat. Bring to a gentle
simmer, then reduce to medium-low, cover
and cook for 5 minutes. Remove the pot
from the heat and let stand, covered, for
about 5 minutes to allow the meatballs
to firm up slightly. Remove and discard
the pecorino chunk. Serve with additional
grated cheese.
MILK STREET
Neapolitans serve their meatballs with a basic tomato sauce they refer to as ragù.
ARTS ● LIFE I FOOD
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