Winnipeg Free Press (Newspaper) - September 17, 2025, Winnipeg, Manitoba
WINNIPEGFREEPRESS.COM ●
C3
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17, 2025
Choosing wisely, cooking well can help you
fall in love with produce
SQUASH
your aversion to veggies
A
LL Camille Metcalfe asks
is that you give vegetables a
chance. Even the ones you
don’t like.
Growing up, the British Colum-
bia-born chef was convinced she
hated eggplants. The texture of the
deep purple fruit was offputting, the
flavour even more so. Mushrooms
were also a struggle.
“It turns out (my mom) just didn’t
cook them in a way that I liked,” she
says. “I love eggplants now. Don’t
write off a vegetable because you
didn’t like it that one time.”
Encouraging culinary curiosity has
been a big part of Metcalfe’s career,
which started as a part-time kitchen
job in college and later evolved into
teaching youth how to grow and
prepare food with NorWest Co-op
Community Food Centre.
A Red River College Polytech alum,
Metcalfe recently returned to her
alma mater, where she helps culinary
arts students find apprenticeships as
a work-integrated learning co-ordi-
nator. Her days off are usually spent
tending to her garden and experi-
menting with various forms of food
preservation, from dehydrating to
pickling to canning.
In today’s Homemade Cooking
School class, Metcalfe shares how to
make the most of produce.
Shopping
Beyond the chosen cooking method,
seasonality can also impact vegetable
enjoyment.
Thanks to global supply chains,
supermarkets can stock produce year-
round regardless of what’s in season
locally, leading to pale winter tomatoes
and limp fall asparagus.
Instead, Metcalfe recommends
buying fruits and veg at the height of
their respective harvest seasons. This
can include shopping at local farmers
markets or stocking up on imported
goods when they’re peaking elsewhere
in the world, such as citrus during the
wintertime.
“Fresh vegetables can really make a
difference,” she says. “When vegeta-
bles are in season then I know they’re
going to be at their best flavour and
I’m excited to eat them.”
She’s also a proponent of buying edi-
ble but blemished produce, since most
imperfections can be trimmed away.
Storing
Produce is among the most wasted
food in Canadian households.
Proper storage can extend freshness
and shelf life, so that bag of lettuce in
the back of the fridge doesn’t turn into
a bag of wet brown mush bound for the
garbage.
Leafy greens and most herbs should
be stored in the refrigerator in a
resealable bag with a sheet of paper
towel to wick excess moisture, says
Metcalfe. Tender basil, however,
should be stored on the counter and
eaten soon after purchase.
Canada’s Food Guide advises keep-
ing fruits and vegetables separated in
the fridge with fruits in the low-humid-
ity and vegetables in the high-humidity
crisper drawers.
For hardy root vegetables, try to
replicate the cool, dark environment of
a cellar. “But onions and potatoes don’t
like each other, so don’t store them
next to each other,” Metcalfe adds.
Produce on the verge can be frozen
or turned into stock. To reduce food
waste, spoiled fruits and vegetables
can be composted in a backyard bin
or dropped off at a City of Winnipeg
compost location.
Prepping, seasoning
and cooking
Fresh produce should be washed
prior to eating and vegetables should
be peeled, seeded and cut according to
preference and use.
Salads and raw veggies are typically
served with dressings and dips to add
seasoning and enhance palatability.
Fibrous greens, such as kale, can be
massaged with oil to reduce bitterness
and soften the leaves.
Cooking changes the flavour and
composition of food. Cooked vegetables
can be served with a sauce or seasoned
simply with oil, salt and herbs.
Here are some common ways to cook
vegetables:
● Steaming: Fill a pot with a few
inches of water and bring to a boil on
the stovetop. Place vegetables in a
steamer basket and lower into the pot,
ensuring the bottom of the steamer is
above the water level. Cover and cook
until vegetables are soft. Season as
desired.
● Blanching: Bring a pot of water to
a boil on the stovetop and add 15-30
ml (1-2 tbsp) of salt. Add vegetables to
the water using tongs to avoid splash-
back, and boil for several minutes until
tender but firm. Remove vegetables
from the pot and place directly into an
ice-water bath.
“This is called shocking,” Metcal-
fe says while demonstrating how to
blanch broccolini. “It is taking them
from a very hot environment to a very
cold environment; this is going to stop
them from cooking.”
Once the broccolini is drained and
dried, Metcalfe seasons the greens
with olive oil, lemon juice, chili flakes
and more salt. Find a video of the pro-
cess at wfp.to/blanching.
● Stir-frying: Heat oil over high heat
in a wok or wide pan. Add vegetables
and stir constantly while sautéing until
tender-crisp. Add sauce, continue stir-
ring and cook until just incorporated.
● Roasting: Preheat the oven, usu-
ally to 400 F, and cut vegetables into
uniform pieces. Toss with oil, salt and
desired spices and spread evenly in a
single layer on a baking tray. Roast un-
til crisp, tender and browned slightly.
Root vegetables, such as squash and
potatoes, will take longer to cook than
other ingredients.
eva.wasney@winnipegfreepress.com
EVA WASNEY
c
o
o
ki
n
g
s
c
h
o
o
l
Once the broccolini is blanched, Metcalfe tosses the stalks with lemon juice, olive oil, salt and chili flakes. In the completed dish, the broccolini
is cooked but still crisp to the bite.
ARTS ● LIFE I FOOD
MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS
Camille Metcalfe, plating her broccolini, recalls how learning to cook eggplant properly transformed her opinion of the purple vegetable.
Two city eateries in running for best new restaurant list
TWO neighbouring Winnipeg restau-
rants have landed in the national spot-
light just six months after opening.
On Tuesday, Baby Baby (137 Os-
borne St.) and Shirley’s (135 Osborne
St.) were named among 31 finalists in
the running for a spot on Air Canada’s
2025 Best New Restaurants list.
For Chris Gama, co-chef and partner
at Baby Baby, it’s a meaningful acco-
lade after years of behind-the-scenes
labour.
“It’s been a lot of work,” says Gama,
who co-owns the restaurant with Raya
Konrad, Daly Gyles and Nick Gladu.
“We’re really proud of ourselves and
we’re really proud of our team… be-
cause it takes all of us to build some-
thing nice,”
Baby Baby and Shirley’s both opened
in March and worked closely during
renovations to restore and divide the
Osborne Village storefront previously
home to Basil’s, Black Rabbit Bistro
and several other short-lived concepts.
On the south side of the building,
Baby Baby serves boutique cocktails
and shared plates in a whimsical din-
ing room created by Winnipeg studio
Fireside Design Build.
To the north, Shirley’s chef and
owner Renée Girard specializes in
fine-casual fare, including handmade
pasta and homemade pickles.
Gama is glad Girard is getting her
due.
“It’s really, really nice to see her get
this kind of recognition, especially
since it’s her first restaurant. She put a
lot of herself into this,” he says.
The kudos run both ways.
“I’m honoured to be on that same
platform as them; they’re people
I’ve looked up to my whole culinary
career,” Girard says of the Baby Baby
ownership group.
Opening Shirley’s — named after
Girard’s grandmother — has been a
lifelong dream made possible by en-
couragement from friends and family.
Making it on Canada’s best new restau-
rants list is the cherry on top.
“You’re damn right I’m proud of
it and every single one of my team
members should be proud of it, too,”
Girard says.
Osborne Village’s new generation of
dining options have been well repre-
sented on the Air Canada list in recent
years, with Crumb Queen and Andy’s
Lunch (166 Osborne St.) landing on the
Top 10 in 2024.
“It’s nice to see the village getting
acknowledged because we couldn’t
have been successful if it wasn’t for
the support we’ve had from the neigh-
bourhood,” Gama says.
Girard agrees.
“This is a great thing for our city
and it’s a great thing for the commu-
nity and Osborne Village,” she says.
“We’re finally being recognized in the
Prairies and I think that’s very special
and well deserved.”
The annual Air Canada Best New
Restaurants list includes dine-in
eateries opened between May 2024 and
April 2025, nominated by a panel of
national culinary professionals. The
Top 10 list will be revealed on Nov. 17
in Toronto
eva.wasney@winnipegfreepress.com
EVA WASNEY
MIKAELA MACKENZIE / FREE PRESS
Using one hand as a filter can keep lemon
seeds from falling into your dish.
When sprinkling salt, pepper or — in this case — chili flakes, do so from further away from
the food to ensure even distribution.
;